By Phyllis Pan
Four-hands piano performances are beautiful. Four-hands dinners are dangerous — and more exciting, especially if you’re trying to watch your waistline. Thankfully, some temptations are worth giving in to.
Happening for just two nights on 17 and 18 July, Threads of Fire & Spice sees Man Fu Yuan welcoming Chef Sedtapat Sukpaisanpongsa (Pop) from Lily’s at The Ritz-Carlton, Bangkok, for a collaboration that brings together Cantonese finesse and the vibrant spirit of Thai cuisine.
One thing I found particularly interesting about Chef Aaron is that he is Singapore’s first disciple of the historic Man Han Quan Xi tradition. Known as the Manchu-Han Imperial Feast, it traces its roots back to the imperial courts of China, where extravagant banquets were created to showcase culinary mastery, precision and hospitality on a grand scale. Picture one of those grand scenes from a Chinese period movie, where the emperor sits before a seemingly endless table of delicacies, each dish crafted to impress not only the palate but also the eye. While few of us will ever experience such a feast in its original form, it offers a glimpse into the rich culinary traditions that continue to influence Chinese cuisine today.
If Chef Aaron’s story is rooted in history, Chef Pop’s story is one of exploration. Before taking the helm at Lily’s at The Ritz-Carlton, Bangkok, he spent nearly a decade working in Singapore, alongside stints in Canada and Fiji. Looking at his journey, it is easy to imagine how cooking in different countries and cultures might influence the way he sees food. Perhaps that is what makes this collaboration so interesting. One chef draws inspiration from centuries-old traditions, while the other brings experiences gathered from different corners of the world.
At first glance, Cantonese and Thai cuisines seem quite different. Cantonese cuisine is often associated with precision and technique, while Thai cuisine is known for its vibrant flavours and aromatics. As I was reading through the menu, it struck me that the two cuisines may not be as different as I had imagined.
I found myself drawn to the phrase “fire, fragrance and precision“. The more I looked at the dishes, the more those three elements began to make sense.
When it came to precision, my mind immediately went to Chef Aaron’s Silk Tofu Consommé. If handmade silk tofu paired with an eight-hour master broth isn’t precision, I don’t know what is. There is nowhere to hide behind rich sauces or extravagant ingredients when a dish is built around something this deceptively simple.
As I moved through the menu, I started noticing how often fragrance appeared in different forms. Lemongrass in the Ocean Elixir, smoked Pu’er tea in Pu’er Whisper and tea leaf aromas in the Perfumed Duck all make an appearance. By this point, it almost felt as though the menu had become a scratch-and-sniff experience.
Then there is the fire. The Typhoon Lobster was the dish that immediately caught my attention. Crispy garlic, dried chilli and tom yum aromatics all in one dish? If there is one course that seems to embody the spirit of Threads of Fire & Spice, this might well be it.
Beyond the dishes that best represented fire, fragrance and precision, there were a few others that had me mentally planning my dinner. The Chiang Mai Khao Soi Softshell Crab was one of them. Khao soi is already a favourite whenever I visit Thailand, so seeing it reimagined in this way piqued my curiosity.
The Massaman Wagyu Short Rib was another. Rich curry, wagyu and crispy shallots? I don’t think much persuasion is needed there.
Then there is Scallop Legacy, a combination of king scallop, preserved vegetables and baked fragrant rice that sounds both familiar and comforting. By this point, I was beginning to wonder whether I would still have room for dessert.
By the time I reached the dessert section of the menu, I was pleased to see the collaboration continuing right to the end. Golden Mango Duo Symphony allows both chefs to present their own interpretation of mango, while Milk Tea Egg Tart and Pandan Red Date Cake round things off with flavours that feel familiar and approachable.
More than a showcase of individual dishes, Threads of Fire & Spice is ultimately about bringing different perspectives to the same table. And with the collaboration available for just two evenings, there is only a short window to experience it for yourself.
Man Fu Yuan is located on Level 2 at Frasers House, a Luxury Collection Hotel, 80 Middle Road, Singapore 188966. Dinner is served from 6.00pm to 10.00pm. For reservations and enquiries, please visit manfuyuansg.com/fourhands or call +65 6825 1008.
