By Audrey Tan & Dr Elias Tam
If you have an oily scalp, you’ve probably heard of countless hair care “rules” or tips that promise to fix the problem—wash your hair less often, avoid conditioner, or rinse with cold water—but how much of this advice is actually true?
We spoke with aesthetic medicine and hair transplant specialist Dr Elias Tam from the EHA Clinic here in Singapore, to separate fact from fiction.
An expert in hair and scalp health, he explains the science behind oily scalps, debunks common myths, and shares expert-backed tips for keeping hair fresh and balanced in this post.
Forget Everything You Know About Caring For Your Oily Scalp, And Let’s Clarify The Facts!
Audrey: Firstly, thank you, Dr Elias, for answering our questions and helping us learn more about haircare for oily scalps. One tip circulating on the internet is that those with oily scalps should shampoo less to “train” the scalp to produce less oil. Is this a fact or a myth?
Dr Elias: This is a myth. You can’t “train” your scalp to produce less oil; by washing less, you run the risk of an even oilier scalp.
Audrey: How often do you suggest washing hair for those with oily scalps?
Dr Elias: Once a day is usually just right for most people, and up to twice a day for some individuals. Be mindful, as excessive washing may dry out the scalp too much and trigger more sebum production in some people.
Audrey: What type of shampoo should people with oily scalps use?
Dr Elias: Rotate between the types of shampoos you use depending on the day. Lightweight clarifying shampoos are recommended at baseline if you prefer to use only one.
Audrey: Should people with oily scalps avoid using hair conditioners?
Dr Elias: There’s no need to avoid using conditioners if you have an oily scalp since they are meant to be used for the hair tips and not applied directly on the scalp anyway.
Audrey: Is it OK to wash the hair only with water (without shampoo and conditioner) on days when we don’t sweat a lot?
Dr Elias: If you have an oily scalp, washing with just water will not be sufficient. You need shampoo to help get the oil out of your hair and give it some life.
Audrey: What ingredients should those with oily scalp avoid/look for in their shampoo?
Dr Elias: A good start is to avoid too harsh shampoos, such as ones that contain isopropyl alcohol in concentrations above 1%. Artificial fragrances should also be avoided if possible, as they may irritate & trigger scalp inflammation, making it even more oily.
Audrey: What does a perfect hair care regimen look like for someone with an oily scalp to keep oil at bay for prolonged freshness?
Dr Elias: Use and rotate appropriate shampoos with ingredients such as salicylic acid to exfoliate the scalp, tea tree oil to reduce inflammation, and zinc and niacinamide to control sebum production.
Audrey: Are there any other myths you’ve heard that you want to validate/debunk?
Dr Elias: Yes—avoid washing your hair with very hot or cold water! Neither helps an oily scalp. Washing with very hot water dries and irritates the scalp. And while cold water makes the hair shinier, it does not “close” the pores nor reduce sebum production. Room temperature water is usually sufficient in Singapore.
Next, I want to debunk the idea that organic shampoos are always the better option. What’s more important is the ingredients that are used.
And lastly, an oily scalp is usually not a cause for hair loss. It is not a definitive sign of poor hygiene or a bad scalp, as some people are just born with an oily scalp.
Audrey: Do you recommend any other hair care tips, products, ingredients or supplements for oily scalps?
Dr Elias: People often focus on external treatments without realising that diet, hydration and our overall health play a huge role in scalp health. Rather than piling up more products on the scalp, consider a balanced diet with sufficient zinc to help reduce the appearance of an oily scalp. Staying hydrated also helps to balance oil levels.
Secondly, you can’t rely on dry shampoo alone to cleanse the scalp. Dry shampoo works by absorbing oil from the hair, making it look less oily, but it does not clean the scalp. You can use it occasionally, but please remember to also cleanse the scalp with shampoo and water.
Audrey: What is the one key takeaway you’d like to share with our readers about dealing with an oily scalp?
Dr Elias: Take care of your general health and lifestyle. Don’t forget that the scalp is part of the skin, and good health usually leads to healthier skin and hair.
So there you have it, the expert has spoken. Beauty comes from within, which also applies to your hair and scalp. If you would like to consult Dr Elias for your hair and scalp concerns, you can call EHA Clinic at 6235 3325 or visit their website.