By Iolee Anagnostopoulou
As shoppers, we associate luxury fashion brands with exclusivity, high price tags, and a commitment to exceptional quality that stands the test of time. These brands often position themselves as arbiters of style and craftsmanship, offering products that promise durability and timeless appeal instead of cheap, mass-produced garments and fleeting fashion trends.
However, as the industry’s market value approaches $130 billion, concerns about luxury brands and sustainability inevitably arise.
Sustainability refers to practices that meet present-day needs without compromising future generations’ ability to meet theirs. It involves environmental stewardship, ethical labour practices, and the responsible use of resources.
The question is, are all these included in the steep prices, or is luxury fashion just as bad as (or worse than) the rest?
Fast Fashion Vs Slow (Luxury) Fashion
The fashion industry is broadly divided into two categories: fast fashion and slow (or luxury) fashion. Fast fashion brands like Zara, Forever 21, and H&M are known for their rapid production cycles, low-cost clothing, and notoriously unethical and unsustainable practices.
The industry ranks as the second-largest consumer of water. It contributes around 10% of global carbon emissions—exceeding the impact of all international flights and maritime shipping combined. So, next time you’re tempted to buy that $7 dress from SHEIN or Temu, remember you’d be contributing to environmental degradation and waste.
In contrast, luxury fashion aligns more closely with slow fashion principles, emphasising quality, durability, and sustainability over quantity. However, the assumption that luxury fashion is inherently sustainable is increasingly being challenged. But, even if high-end retailers aren’t as bad, it doesn’t mean they’re not raising massive red flags, such as using animal fur and burning excess stock for exclusivity.
As the demand for ethical consumption continues to grow, luxury brands are under increasing pressure to demonstrate that their practices are as high-quality as their products. This demand for transparency is a significant step towards ensuring that luxury fashion aligns with sustainability principles. Let’s look at some of the industry’s red flags.
Greenwashing
One of the most significant issues in the luxury fashion industry is greenwashing, where brands make exaggerated or misleading claims about their products’ sustainability. This tactic creates a false sense of environmental responsibility, misleading consumers who are trying to make more ethical choices.
For instance, despite its claims of being “sustainable by nature,” LVMH has faced criticism for its lack of transparency and measurable sustainability efforts.
Unethical Materials
Luxury fashion has long been associated with using exotic animal skins and furs, which involve inhumane practices and contribute to biodiversity loss. Although some brands have made strides towards phasing out fur, big names such as Louis Vuitton and Fendi still include it in their collections.
The use of exotic skins remains more widespread, with Hermès even trying to normalise the torture and slaughter of factory-farmed ostriches, crocodiles and alligators for their Birkin bags, belts, and watchbands.
Lack Of Transparency
While luxury brands often boast about their heritage and craftsmanship, the origins of their materials and the working conditions of their labourers are usually shrouded in secrecy. This lack of transparency makes it challenging to truly assess luxury goods’ environmental and social impact, fueling accusations of unethical practices.
Human Rights
Human rights issues in the luxury sector are less visible than in fast fashion but no less pressing. Despite their high prices, the people who make luxury goods are often paid far less than a living wage. Numerous reports of human rights abuses within the supply chains of some of the world’s most prestigious brands, from unpaid wages to poor working conditions, are available.
Dior and Armani are currently under investigation over allegations they used undocumented workers living in dormitories within Chinese workshops in Milan.
Carbon Footprint
Luxury fashion’s carbon footprint is another significant concern, especially with most brands doubling their annual collections to keep up with fast fashion. The industry’s reliance on air freight to meet tight deadlines and the energy-intensive processes of producing high-end materials result in substantial carbon emissions.
Moreover, experts have questioned the effectiveness of carbon offset programs, which brands like Balenciaga, Gucci, and Saint Laurent use to claim net zero. Beyond mere pledges, we don’t see enough luxury brands taking genuine action to reduce their footprint.
Luxury brands and sustainability have a complex relationship. As long as workers within luxury supply chains are underpaid, materials are irresponsibly sourced, and transparency remains insufficient, true sustainability remains out of reach.
These brands must take the lead, fully disclosing their practices and embracing sustainable models—not because of legislative pressure but because it’s the right thing to do.
As consumers, we hold significant power in shaping the fashion industry’s future. By demanding transparency and making more informed, sustainable choices, we can push luxury brands to uphold the principles of sustainability they so often claim to embrace. Only by working together can we ensure that luxury fashion truly reflects these principles.