By Ashvinderjeet Kaur
It’s hard to talk about fast fashion & sustainability without mentioning SHEIN. The brand is infamous for its ultra-cheap clothing and lightning-fast production cycle. Yet, amidst rising calls for sustainable practices in Asia and globally, SHEIN appears to be adapting—or at least claiming to.
Is this transformation genuine, or just clever marketing? As someone who loves a good deal but also values mindful choices, I’ve often wondered: can affordability and responsibility truly coexist?
Asia’s ‘Sustainable’ Market: The Big Opportunity
Asia is pivotal in the fast fashion & sustainability conversation, serving as a production powerhouse and one of the largest global consumer markets. According to a report by Coherent Market Insights, the Asia fast fashion market was valued at USD 91.63 billion in 2023. The report predicts this figure will soar to USD 155.01 billion by 2030. This growth highlights the region’s ever-expanding appetite for affordable, trend-driven clothing, even as sustainability concerns continue to grow.
SHEIN’s success in Asia can largely be attributed to its ability to cater to both these aspects. One example is the introduction of “evoluSHEIN,” a collection using recycled polyester. Marketed as eco-friendly, this collection aligns with the growing demand for sustainable options.
However, some critics argue that such initiatives are little more than greenwashing—a way to improve public perception without addressing the larger issues of overconsumption and waste.
The Role Of Data-Driven Production
SHEIN’s production model relies on data analytics. Unlike traditional fast fashion brands, it produces items in small batches of 50-100 pieces and scales production only for bestsellers. This “test and repeat” approach reduces excess inventory, a major contributor to textile waste.
However, critics point out that this efficiency does not negate the overproduction inherent in SHEIN’s 6,000 daily new designs. A report by Greenpeace revealed that the fashion industry annually produces 92 million tonnes of waste, and fast fashion is a significant contributor. Despite SHEIN’s claim of waste reduction, the sheer scale of its operations makes meaningful sustainability seem unattainable.
Consumers And The Dilemma Of Overconsumption
One of the biggest challenges for fast fashion & sustainability lies in consumer behaviour. Let’s be honest—it’s hard to resist when you can buy a dress for $5. SHEIN capitalises on this with ultra-low prices that encourage overconsumption. Influencers fuel the trend through “haul videos,” showcasing massive orders of trendy clothes.
The problem? Clothes are increasingly treated as disposable, worn just a few times before being discarded. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 87% of textiles end up in landfills or incinerated globally. Even initiatives like SHEIN Exchange, a resale platform for second-hand clothes, struggle to counterbalance this culture of excess.
Asia’s Sustainability Push
In Asia, governments and brands alike are stepping up to tackle the environmental impact of fast fashion. For example, China has committed to recycling 25% of its textile waste by 2025. Similarly, eco-conscious designers across the region champion slow fashion, focusing on quality over quantity.
But what about giants like SHEIN? The company has pledged to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 25% by 2030. It has also partnered with the Apparel Impact Institute to implement energy-efficient manufacturing practices. These initiatives sound promising, but their impact remains to be seen.
The Human Cost Of Cheap Fashion
Beyond environmental concerns, the human impact of fast fashion & sustainability cannot be ignored. An investigation by Swiss non-profit Public Eye revealed Shein garment workers often exceed 70-hour weeks, with allegations of forced labour.
In its 2023 sustainability report, Shein also admitted to uncovering two cases of child labour in its supply chain, which led to temporary suspensions of the implicated suppliers until corrective actions were taken.
Although SHEIN has taken steps to audit its supply chain and tighten supplier policies, many believe the brand’s ultra-low prices come at the expense of workers’ rights.
Can Fast Fashion Ever Be Sustainable?
This brings us to the heart of the matter: is there such a thing as sustainable fast fashion? SHEIN and its peers have made strides in reducing waste and promoting circular fashion. Still, the industry’s business model remains inherently unsustainable.
Overproduction, overconsumption, and exploitative practices are baked into the system.
Yet, I firmly believe small changes can make a difference. As consumers, we have the power to support brands that align with our values. Buying less, choosing quality over quantity, and supporting resale platforms are steps in the right direction.
The relationship between fast fashion & sustainability is a complicated one. Brands like SHEIN are thriving in Asia by adapting to the region’s demand for affordable fashion and sustainable practices. Whether these changes are enough—or just marketing spin—remains to be seen.
For now, the responsibility lies with both the industry and us as consumers to drive meaningful change.